All Packages and/or patterns that use the New York Beauty Block, include separate pages for Parts B and C plus a Master Cutting Guide.  Trim these paper patterns and tape together where indicated before you begin to make your blocks.

Cut the fabric pieces according to the cutting guide that is included with the package/pattern.
Part B
Part C
Pieces for Part A
Step by step instructions for making the New York Beauty Block using the EZ Piecing Foundations.
Trim the Part A foundation fabric, leaving a small amount of extra foundation fabric outside of the broken line.

We recommend lightly starching the foundation at this time.

Note:  Make sure your iron is heated evenly before pressing foundations.  We recommend running it over your ironing board before pressing the foundations.
Set a fabric Piece #1 with the wrong side facing up.

Align the foundation on top of the fabric piece.  Make sure that at this point, you can read the writing that is printed on the foundation and that you can see through it to view the wrong side of Fabric Piece #1.

Align the foundation so that the line between space #1 and #2 is approximately 1/4" from the edge of the fabric underneath.  Make sure that the fabric extends beyond all of the lines around space #1.

Pin the foundation and fabric together to hold in place.
Turn the foundation unit over so the right side of fabric #1 is facing up.  Align a fabric piece #2 with fabric #1 where it extends the 1/4" into space #2.  Make sure the right sides of the fabrics are facing each other.

Pin the fabrics to the foundation to hold in place.
Turn the unit over so the foundation fabric is facing up.

Stitch on the line between space #1 and #2.

Note:  Use a regular stitch length.  You do not need to backstitch at the ends.  Start and stop where the line starts and stops.
Clip the threads.

Turn the foundation unit over so the fabrics are facing up.

This is what the unit should look like to this point.
Open fabric piece #2 and press.
Turn the unit over on the cutting mat so that the foundation fabric is facing up.

Align the straight edge with the line between space #2 and #3.

Note:  We used a piece of card stock cut 2" wide x 10" long then cut a piece of ultra fine sand paper the same size.  We glued the sand paper to the card stock on one side.  Set the smooth side along the line and fold the fabric back over the sand paper side.  It helps keep it from slipping.
Fold the foundation fabric only back over the straight edge.
Snugly fit the Add-A-Quarter ruler against the straight edge.
Use the rotary cutter to trim away the excess fabric.

You now have  your perfect 1/4" seam ready for adding the next piece of fabric.
Set the foundation unit so the fabrics are facing up.
Set a fabric piece #3 even with this just-trimmed edge of fabric piece #2.  Make sure the right sides of the fabrics are facing each other.

Pin the fabric to the foundation to hold in place.
Turn the foundation unit over so the foundation is facing up.  Stitch on the line between space #2 and #3.

Clip the threads.
Turn the foundation unit over so the fabrics are facing up.

Open fabric piece #3 and press.
Set the foundation unit on the cutting mat with the foundation fabric facing up.

Align the straight edge with the line between space #3 and #4.
Fold the foundation fabric only back over the straight edge.
Snugly fit the Add-A-Quarter ruler against the straight edge.
Trim away the excess fabric with the rotary cutter.
Turn the foundation unit over so the fabrics are facing up.

Align a fabric piece #4 with this just-trimmed edge of fabric piece #3.

Pin the fabrics to hold in place.

Turn the unit over and stitch on the line between space #3 and #4.

Open fabric piece #4 and press.

Continue to trim, stitch and press until fabric piece #7 has been added.  Do not trim this piece after pressing it open.
Set the foundation unit on the cutting mat with the foundation fabric facing up.

Align the straight edge with the line between space #1 and #8.
Fold the foundation fabric only back over the straight edge.


Snugly fit the Add-A-Quarter ruler against the straight edge and trim the excess fabric with the rotary cutter.
Turn the foundation unit over so the fabrics are facing up.

Align a fabric piece #8 with this just-trimmed edge of fabric piece #1.  Make sure the right sides of the fabrics are facing each other.

Pin the fabric to the foundation to hold in place.
Turn the foundation over so the foundation fabric is facing up.

Stitch on the line between space #1 and #8.




Continue adding pieces in the same manner until the entire foundation unit is covered.
This is what the Part A should look like to the point from the front.
And from the back.
Trim both straight ends of Part A, 1/2" from the solid line (on the broken line is fine.)
Trim both curved sides on the broken line.
This is what Part A should look like on the back side when all of the edges have been trimmed.
Clip the inside curve of Part A where indicated.
Match the center dot on Section B with the center dot on Part A.  Pin in place.
Work your way along one side of the center, matching the edges and pinning at least once in each section of Part A.  Do not stretch either piece, just gently open the foundation unit as you work and match your way out to the edge.

The edges of Part A and Part B will not match up but do not worry about that.  Just let the one extend past the other at this time.
Go back to the center and work your way out to the other edge.  Be sure to pin from the foundation side.

This shows what the unit should look like from the back side of the pins.
Stitch with the foundation side facing up.

Stitch on the line.

Use your thumb on the bottom side to keep the fabric smooth as you stitch.
Stitching on the line will produce perfect points every time!
Set the unit on the ironing mat and gently press flat.

The seam allowance will naturally lay towards Part B.
Match the center dot on the outer curve of Part A with the center dot on Part C.
Going from the center to the outer edge, gently match the edge of Part A with the edge of Part C.  Pin at least once in each section of Part A.

Going back to the center, match the edges out to the other end.

Do not stretch either of the fabrics when pinning together.

Again, the edges of Part A and Part C do not necessarily match, which is why you work from the center out.
When the two pieces are pinned together, make sure there are no pleats in the fabric of Part C.
Turn the unit over so the foundation fabric is facing up.

Stitch on the line.

Use your thumb and forefinger to keep the fabric of Part C going smoothly as you sew.
Turn the unit over so the fabrics are facing up and gently press.

The seam allowance is going to naturally lay towards Part C.
Trim the Master Cutting Guide along the broken lines.

Cut out the two wedges where indicated.
Align the dot (where the wedge was cut out) on one side with the point on the block where piece #12 and #13 of Part A meet with Part B.
Hold or pin in place.

Align the other dot (wedge) on the other side in the same manner so both points are matched at the same time.

Pin or hold the Master Cutting Guide in place.
Keeping the Master Cutting Guide in place, trim all four sides on the broken line.

This completes the block.

If you use this method for all of your New York Beauty blocks, they will all be identical so the curves will meet.

You can also use sticky dots and attach the Master Cutting Guide to the back side of an
8 1/2" acrylic ruler.

Once you get the knack of putting these blocks together, they will be the easiest, quickest and most accurate New York Beauty blocks you'll ever make.

ENJOY!!!
THE FINISHED BLOCK!
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